"One big country," he said to describe the Soviet Union. "Before we live in one big country. After, my mother, she live in Ukraine, no understand why she live in different country. Same way all over. Families live in different country. Before, better. Better one big country." Our conversation, though interesting, was difficult with the time delay of translation, and I often found my gaze wandering towards the window or the lemon cookies on the table. Alexander's frustration was apparent from the grimace of his face he made at every attempt to express a thought. It did become easier though, and the next day he seemed eager to practice his English some more. Walt spent the most time talking with him about children, life, humanity, and mother Russia.

We have three more days on the train to Irkutsk, and for me it could not go by fast enough. I am pathetically afflicted with a sensitivity to motion. I am sitting in an internet cafe hours after disembarking the train and I feel like I'm still riding it! From experience I know this will last for weeks after I finally end my train travel. Anyway, it builds character.

It will be some time before I am able to post again. I probably won't get to use an internet cafe again until I reach Mongolia. I wanted to add a few things to recap on my time in Russia. I know now that the general opinion of Russians (which I surmised from the opnion on one Russian man on a train, bien sur!) is that Moscow is not the "real Russia". This knowlegde, coupled with the sort of smearing effect of human memory, relegates my time in Moscow to the "interesting cultural experience" rather than the "worst vacation ever" category. The rigid rules of the Kremlin, the frightening stance and attitude of the guards, the brisk and dismissive metro station attendants. Sigh. Again, it's much more fun to remember them than to experience them.

I wish I had spent more time in St. Petersburg, and I recommend that city to anyone for a different kind of destination. You could, of course spend days in the hermitage, even if I was content with mere hours. It would be so much more fun to hire a guide and get to appreciate the history of it all. Also, if I didn't mention it before, we went to the opera and saw Nabucco by Verdi. What a treasure. Admittedly I slept for most of the Act I, but I really enjoyed Acts II through IV. And it was only about 6 USD. Now that's the kind of cultural experience you can hang your hat on! The most recent travel lesson learned has been that you can be in a place, see it, smell it, and spend all of your money in it, without actually understanding it. The most rewarding moments so far have been my interactions with the people of Russia. It is difficult to make connections with the language barrier, but it is possible and well worth the effort.

Thanks for everyone who is commenting and staying in touch! I'll catch up with you again in Mongolia!